I prefer wired personally as I forget the battery always at a desperate moment. Same for mice.
Hence I have a stock at the back of my workshop but mainly french so layout different. I am a seak and peck typist so no big deal for me .
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Hi again, 
@nevj :
As soon as my external KB is delivered I´ll try that.
Can´t do it now, as the arrow keys don´t work either. So selecting the USB drive of the live ISO isn´t possible at the moment.
I see.
Well, for me wireless is more convenient. Two more cables would be too much of a mess for me (I have some place issues).
The only thing I have to make sure of is having enough spare batteries at home. 
Many greetings from Rosika 
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Hi Neville,
Yes, under the brand name WD-40, this is one of the sprays that can be used on electronic components. There are several, but this one is dry, leaves no residue and is non-conductive.
I use another brand, but this one is equivalent.
Perhaps most of you already know, but when we say WD-40 it’s “WD-40” and we don’t want to know anything else.
WD-40 is a brand and has a variety of sprays, not least the universal “WD-40” that “works for anything and everything”
Jorge
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I use WD40 to lubricate the chain of my bike. I’d hesitate to spray it onto the keyborad…
I know only this version, which is suitable for the chain/brake bowdens.
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My bike dealer said NO to wd40 for my bike chain totally unsuitable, so i use engine oil to recycle it.
This is off-topic…
Have you tried teflon?
Try to find out if it’s advisable for what you want
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Hi @Tech_JA and @all,
as long as we are off-topic (and I hope other folks here won´t mind ),
can you tell me what WD-40 can be used for?
I mean the “Muntifunctional oil” version of it. 
I once bought it from Aldi because I had heard before that´s supposed to be a magic sort of penetrating oil and a must-have in every household.
On the Aldi site there´s a rough concept what it´s about but I´d like to know what you folks use it for.
Thanks and many greetings from Rosika
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I use it for bolts or screws I cannot unfasten. Leave it soaking for a while than try again.
A friend of mine passed away last year and clearing his garage I came across a stock. He must have bought the entire shop there were so many cans some part used bit most untouched.
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Thanks, Paul, 
That´s great. I suppose we all come across use cases like this once in a while.
I guess the soaking part refers to the fact that WD-40 is defined as “penetrating oil” (“Kriechöl” in German).
Thanks for letting me know.
Many greetings from Rosika
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- removing moisture from old fashioned car ignition systems
- freeing up moving metal parts… eg door hinges, sliding garage doors
- undoing rusted nuts and bolts
- do not put it in locks… it leaves a residue which attracts dirt
- it is not really a lubricant… more a cleaner
- I have heard it said that it is good for arthritis … you absorb it thru the skin and it lubricates knee and ankle joints. The smell would turn me off.
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Hi Neville.
thanks a lot for the collection of use cases.
What does “freeing up” mean?
Is it for disconnecting those parts from one another?
Thanks. That´s some valuable advice.
Really 
Or is it meant as a joke?
Cheers from Rosika
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Hi Rosika,
My answer is similar to Neville’s and Paul’s
It’s used for:
- degreasing (e.g. parts with oil on them);
- lubricate (e.g. hinges, but it’s not a lubricant);
- as it is a penetrating liquid, it helps to remove screws, nuts, etc., for example;
- some people use it on electronic components (I’m not referring to forum users here);
- parts cleaning;
- protects parts against corrosion;
- etc…
I can’t stand the smell of WD-40
Jorge
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Thanks, Jorge, for your reply as well.
That´s interesting.
Despite not being designed for the purpose of lubrication it can still be used to this end. I guess that´s one of the reasons why many people consider it to be some sort of “miracle cure”.
Great. I like that.
So I think it´s a good thing that I purchased this product after all.
Thanks again, Jorge, and many greetings from Rosika
P.S.:
I haven´t smelled it yet.
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Moving parts in machinery tend to accumulate dirt and rust. This makes for a lot of friction and even loss of movement altogether. What wd40 does is wash out all the dirt by penetrating tiny cavities and gaps. Then when a moving joint is clean one can oil it and it will work freely again.
Oil on its own works, but it is better to loosen up the dirt first.
It was serious.
There could be something to it, but there are probably better treatments. I use horse linament. Main thing about arthritis is to keep warm… cold triggers it. So do certain chemicals… dishwashing liquid is one that affects me. Showing my age here.
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Thanks Neville, for the explanation,
Ah, now I get it.
So WD-40 is indeed a cleaner primarily and then a real lubricant like oil can work better on the parts. That´s clever.
Oh, I´m flabbergasted. 
Using a chemical that´s supposed to work on mechanical parts as some sort of medicine… .
Well, I know we live in modern times, but this seems to be a radical approach, doesn´t it?
Well, as long as doesn´t do anything harmful to the human body I think it´s alright then.
Many greetings from Rosika
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Btw,
WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula.
Source: wikipedia
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@Tech_JA :
Thanks, Jorge, for looking it up.
WD-40 even has its own entry in wikipedia.
Wow, I´m impressed.
It hadn´t occurred to me to try to look it up there.
Cheers from Rosika
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Some people may remember a similar product called plus gas.
Although not as popular as WD-40 you can still buy it.
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Thanks Jorge.
I remember when it first came on the market in 1970’s. Cars had distributors with a points ignition then. It was magic for starting a car with a water in the distributor.
@Gary
I think one would have to apply it very regularly for it to act as a rust preventative.
It did not help with rust in car bodies.
I might repeat, do not use it on locks. There is a similar product called ‘Inox’ which is suitable for locks because it does not leave a dust attracting sticky residue.
I have never found wd40 much use in undoing rusted nuts and bolts. The best tool for that is an oxy torch. Get the thing red hot and quench it rapidly with water. It shrinks differentially when cooled and fractures the rust.
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For what good it does rust preventive wise, diesel fuel does just as good a job
if not better.
I’m a retired car body/painter and fully understand how to get a seized nut and bolt undone. Oxy Acetylene if you need to save something but these days an air chisel or metal wheel on a grinder gets a quicker result.
This is going off topic.
I’m sure Rosika, who started this thread is not taking this kind of advice in to achieve a delicate keyboard fix.
One thing that hasn’t been mentioned is a low pressure blast of air around the keyboard.
Worth a try.
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